On Saturday morning Geoff, Pablo and I (Miles) left Leavenworth after a night of Summer Solstice celebration at our friends farm. Still feeling a bit heavy, we pounded a couple cups of coffee on the way out, and made way for Morpheus.
It didn't make the most sense to leave Leavenworth to climb in Morpheus, considering the rainy days of last week, but we were still optimistic that we could find something exposed and dry. When we arrived, we could tell that it had just rained the night before; the gravel was still stained dark, the streams were full and as the wind would shuffle the wet branches above, the broad devils club leaves far below echoed with a pitter-patter of the stragglers from last night rain. Morpheus is the most beautiful when it is wet. But we came to climb.
After seeing that several of the lines we wanted to get on were seeping, we made our way up to a boulder that we had scrubbed a few weeks prior. It was situated well in the sun, and was bone dry! Though the ground beneath it was damp and with the temperature rising it began to get muggy. As Pablo began to get involved with this boulder problem, the combination of the heat and the inflexibility of Pablo's fresh off-the-shelf carharrts forced him to strip down to his banana boxers. The next go was a send, he achieved the high-step, and slab-launched to the crack. he called it the Third Banana.
Later Johnny showed up and all four of us went expouldering up into a hot talus field. After seeing a few good lines, but lacking the motivation to start cleaning we made our way downhill to the Wizard Hat Project. We all hopped on it, johnny had the burl required, and laid down the FA. The rest of the afternoon was a slow decline in strength and performance. We slapped around on some other things, but it was only a matter of time before all desire was found in the cold IPAs swimmin' in the stream below.
Sunday Morning Jesse Showed up and we headed out to a talus field that i have been wanting to start working on. Some of the rock forms and textures are strange; similar to how I imagine dinosaur skin... Jesse established the first line of the area, then I followed up with a direct line featured in the first image below. I called it "McBerkey", and Jesse called his "With Fries." It began to Drizzle shortly after so we found a potential problem on an overhung arete. Jesse and I worked it for about an hour with a crash pad covering a key hold, then he sent to the sound of a Scottish Jig, so he named it Schlafgahn. Jesse and Pablo then went to a new boulder zone up the road and put up a new problem, and Geoff and I headed home. It was a very good weekend.
McBerkey V7
FA Miles Berkey
Morpheus
Pictured: Miles, Berkey, Jesse Evans, Pablo Zuleta
New climb put up this weekend. Begin low on the left crimp rail and moves up and right. Tops out over a sweet sloper.
Photo By. Pablo Zuleta
Wizard's Hat V10
FA Johnny G
Morpheus
Pictured: Miles, Berkey, Geoff Cecil, Pablo Zuleta, Johnny G.
Awesome new hard line at Morpheus. Begins under on two crimps, with a toe hook and move out and up through the interesting holds to a good top out.
Photo By. Pablo Zuleta
The Third Banana- V9
FA Pablo Zuleta
Morpheus
Pictured: Pablo Zuleta and Johnny G
Begins on a jump start and campuses up to small slopers. The final move is a mini dyno to the big edge. ( I bought new Carhartts but wasn't getting the flexibility I needed for the high step. So I was left with one option to send.) ;-)
Photo By. Miles Berkey
Bermuda Triangle-V7
FA Pablo Zuleta
Morpheus
Pictured: Pablo Zuleta
Begin with big foot holds and two large underclings and move up thru the Bermuda Triangle Hold to a reachy crimp. Continue left to a jug and top it out. The Bermuda Triangle also known as the “Devil’s Triangle” is a cryptic, mysterious line that is difficult to explain or grasp yet with careful navigation, balance, and power it can be conquered.
Photo By. Pablo Zuleta
Trying to hold in the swing on the Bermuda Triangle.
Jesse on the Bermuda Triangle
Pablo Zuleta and Jesse Evans after putting up the Bermuda Triangle.
Teaser
Enough said ;-)
Ryan Timm pulling on the right start of this alluring suspended arete. Another possible start begins on the left side of the arete with a campus to toe-hook kick to the arete.
